If you want vinyl plank flooring to look tight and wear hard, the prep work and sequence matter more than the brand name on the box. We have laid thousands of square feet of LVP and SPC over the years, from busy kitchens to basements that see spring moisture. Here is the checklist we actually use on jobs, with the same advice we give our neighbors. Follow it, and you will avoid the cupped seams, hollow spots, and door rubs that give vinyl plank a bad name. Skip steps, and even a luxury vinyl plank with a 20‑mil wear layer will eventually telegraph problems from below.
Know Your Material Before You Start
A common question we get is, what is the difference between LVP and SPC? LVP usually means a flexible vinyl plank, while SPC is a rigid core product with stone polymer composite. Both can be excellent, but they behave differently.
- Flexible LVP, like Karndean or Shaw Floorte, can hide slight subfloor irregularities but is less forgiving over big dips. Rigid SPC, such as COREtec or LifeProof 6.5 mm with attached pad, bridges small imperfections better and locks tighter, but it can click apart if the subfloor is out of flat.
We often tell homeowners that SPC is great in kitchens, bathrooms, and basements because it does not mind some humidity. If you are flooring contractor Fort Myers on a slab that gets a little cool or has seasonal moisture, SPC with an integrated vapor barrier underlayment is usually the safer bet. If your house is extremely quiet-sensitive, flexible LVP with a separate high-density underlayment can dampen footfall better. Both can be installed floating. Some flexible glue-down options exist too, which we use in commercial spaces or long hallways to avoid joint creep.
One honest note: if your subfloor is truly wavy or you have a lot of transitions and complex doorways, vinyl plank is not a magic wand. Sometimes a quality laminate flooring with an AC4 rating will look cleaner because it has a tighter joint across slight waves. Laminate is not as moisture forgiving though, so we only recommend it above grade where leaks are unlikely.
Pre‑Job Walkthrough: Moisture, Structure, and Expectations
Here is what most people don’t realize about vinyl plank flooring installation. The product is waterproof, but your house is not. Subfloor moisture, HVAC swings, and structural movement still matter. One thing we always check before starting:
- Slab moisture: We use a calcium chloride test or RH probe. If the concrete is above the flooring manufacturer’s limit, we address it. Typical SPC allows up to 85 to 95 percent RH. If it is higher, we use a moisture mitigation primer like Mapei Planiseal or switch to a glue-down system with a moisture-rated adhesive. Wood subfloor moisture: We meter the plywood and framing. In our region, we aim for 6 to 10 percent moisture content. If it is over 12 percent, we pause. Installing over wet wood is a good way to get gapping later. Flatness: Most vinyl planks want within 3/16 inch over 10 feet. We run a 10‑foot straightedge and mark highs and lows. It is boring work, but it is what separates pro results from weekend projects.
We also look at the space for practical obstacles: flush hearths, kitchen islands, stairs, and door swings. A quick sketch helps plan the layout so you are not stuck with a 1‑inch sliver against a visible wall.
Typical timeline for a straightforward 500 sq ft room is 2 to 3 days including prep. Day one is demo and subfloor work. Day two is layout, underlayment, and install. Day three is trim, transitions, and touch ups. Add time if we are leveling a slab or patching underlayment.
Acclimation, Storage, and HVAC
Vinyl plank has less movement than hardwood floors, but it is not immune to temperature swings. We like to keep the boxes in the space for 24 to 48 hours at a stable 65 to 75 degrees, with the HVAC running as it will normally. Do not store boxes in a cold garage and haul them in to start cutting. The cold planks can feel brittle and the locking tabs chip easily.
In our experience, the rooms that end up with squeaks or click joint issues are usually ones where someone installed during a cold snap with no heat, or the AC was set to 60 in July and the slab was sweating. Keep humidity in the home between 35 and 55 percent where possible.
Subfloor Prep: Where Jobs Are Won or Lost
On concrete:
- Grind down high spots with a cup wheel, vacuum thoroughly, then skim lows with a cementitious self‑leveler like Ardex K 15. Prime as required. Check slab cracks. Static hairlines are fine for floating LVP, but big movers need a plan. If we see a control joint that moves seasonally, we expect to use a T‑molding or break the field at the joint to avoid tension. Always use an appropriate vapor barrier. If the plank has an integrated pad with a built-in barrier, you are set. If not, we roll out a 6 mil poly or a combination underlayment the manufacturer approves.
On plywood:
- Tighten squeaks with construction screws, 2.5 inches into joists. A squeak under vinyl will drive you nuts. Patch voids with a floor patch compound, not drywall mud. Feather out edges so you do not telegraph a hump. Sand down high seams or replace swollen OSB. Vinyl is thin. A 1/16 inch ridge shows through. If the subfloor is rough, we often add a 1/4 inch underlayment grade plywood, stapled every 4 inches on the edges and 6 inches in the field, seams staggered. Fasteners must be flush.
A common mistake DIYers make is laying vinyl over old sheet vinyl or spongy underlayment without checking for give. That bounce kills locking joints and shows as flex under foot.
Underlayment: Know What Your Plank Wants
Many SPC products include an attached IXPE or EVA pad. Do not double up with another cushion unless the manufacturer allows it. Too much cushion leads to joint stress and failures. If sound transmission is a priority in a condo, check the HOA’s IIC rating requirements and choose a plank system that meets it with the pad provided. We have had good results with 6 to 8 mm SPC with a dense pad for multi‑family jobs.
For glue‑down LVP, we use a pressure sensitive adhesive like Henry 650R or Mapei Ultrabond ECO 373. Trowel size and open time matter. Spread too much and you get bleed through at seams. Spread too little and adhesion suffers. On big rooms we often snap grids and work in controlled sections.
Expansion Gaps and Movement
Even rigid vinyl moves a little. We leave 1/4 inch at all fixed verticals, 3/8 inch in larger spans or sunrooms. Under long runs over 40 feet, most manufacturers ask for an expansion break, typically covered by a T‑molding. If you install tight to drywall with a bead of drywall mud drooling into the gap, you have effectively glued the floor to the wall. That is another common DIY mistake.
We also undercut door jambs with a flush cut saw and a scrap of plank as a guide. Sliding the plank under the jamb gives a clean look and preserves the expansion allowance.
Layout: Start Smart, End Smart
We pop a control line parallel to the longest focal wall. Then we dry lay a few rows to see the net width at the last wall. If the final row will be less than 2 inches, we rip the starter row to balance both sides. We also try to avoid skinny pieces at doorways and stair noses. A little time planning saves a lot of cussing later.
Stagger joints at least 6 inches, and avoid H patterns or stair steps. On wide plank 7 inch boards, we sometimes vary the stagger between 8 and 20 inches to break up the pattern. Keep end joints tight and check each click for a flush top surface. If a joint will not close, debris is usually the culprit. Clear the groove and try again. Never force it with a hammer directly on the edge. Use a tapping block designed for click vinyl, and a pull bar at the last row.
Cutting and Fitting: Clean, Safe, Accurate
Score and snap works on many planks, but on thick 7.5 mm SPC with a painted bevel, a fine tooth saw gives cleaner edges. We use a 60‑tooth blade on a miter saw for crosscuts and a jigsaw for notches. Wear a mask. Vinyl dust is fine and hangs in the air.
Around doorways, we scribe with a contour gauge or a sharp pencil and undercut jambs so the plank slides under. At pipes, drill 1/4 inch larger than the pipe diameter, split the piece on a back cut, fit around the pipe, then glue the back piece with vinyl adhesive and hide the cut with a pipe escutcheon.
Transitions and Trim
Flooring looks professional when the transitions are solid and straight. We set metal tracks for T‑moldings or reducers with long screws into the subfloor, not just the pad. Allow space for the floor to float under the transition. At exterior doors with a metal threshold, we cut a clean line and use a low reducer if needed. At stairs, use a stair nose from the same manufacturer so color and height match. If your stair nose requires adhesive, follow the cure time before using the stairs. Safety first.
Baseboards and shoe molding hide the expansion gap. If you are reusing existing base, plan on adding new quarter round or shoe to cover the gap. We shoot 18‑gauge nails into the wall, not the floor. You want the floor free to move.
The Installer’s Checklist: Step by Step
Here is the short version we keep on the truck wall. It is not flashy, but it prevents callbacks.
- Verify moisture levels: slab RH or wood MC within spec, HVAC on and stable. Check flatness: 3/16 inch in 10 feet, correct highs and lows with grinder and patch. Confirm underlayment: use only what the manufacturer allows, no double padding. Plan layout: balance rows, undercut jambs, mark transitions, mind expansion. Install methodically: clean grooves, tight joints, stagger seams, protect edges.
Room‑by‑Room Considerations
Kitchens: We cut around cabinet bases and bring the floor just under the toe kick, with 1/4 inch gap. Do not trap the floor under fixed islands unless you plan for expansion space on all sides. If appliances roll, add rigid sliders for the first move. Heavy point loads on thin click joints can cause end joint peaking.
Bathrooms: SPC does fine around tubs and toilets. We caulk the perimeter with 100 percent silicone to keep splashes from getting under the floor. Do not rely on caulk to hide big gaps. Your cuts should be clean.
Basements: We prefer SPC over other types down here. Any slab must be tested. If we see vapor emissions, we address them. Vinyl plank can handle damp air, but persistent hydrostatic pressure will lift any floating floor at the joints.
Sunrooms: UV can fade some patterns over time. Look for products with UV‑stable wear layers and consider blinds. Allow larger expansion gaps, 3/8 inch, because temperature swings are bigger.
Entryways: Grit is the enemy of wear layers. A proper walk‑off mat by the door saves years of life. We have seen 12 mil wear layers look tired in two years at a sandy entry. A 20 mil or thicker is the better choice for high‑traffic entries.
Budgeting Honestly
Installed cost ranges widely depending on prep. For a clean 500 sq ft room with minimal leveling, you are often looking at $3 to $8 per square foot installed, including a good mid‑range SPC. Add $1 to $3 per square foot for leveling or underlayment plywood if the subfloor is rough. Stair work, custom nosings, and complex transitions are add‑ons. We do not sugarcoat this because we have seen homeowners buy a pallet of plank on sale and then find out their slab needs $800 worth of patch to be in spec. That is not a failure of vinyl plank, it is the reality of floors that have to be flat.
Wright Flooring Inc 2775 N. Airport Rd. #102, Fort Myers, Florida 33907 Tel: (239) 938-9999What To Avoid, Learned the Hard Way
- Dragging a fridge across fresh vinyl. It can split end joints. Lay down a sheet of 1/4 inch hardboard and roll on that. Skipping the expansion gap because you think quarter round looks bulky. The floor will push somewhere, often in the middle of the room. Installing over a soft, cushy foam meant for laminate. Vinyl locking systems hate bounce. Ignoring acclimation and HVAC. If the house is 45 degrees, wait. Cold planks click poorly and crack easily. Thinking vinyl plank fixes a wet basement. It covers it up. Deal with drainage and vapor first.
How Vinyl Plank Compares To Other Floors
We install hardwood floors, laminate flooring, tile flooring, and vinyl plank flooring, and they each have a lane.
- Hardwood gives unmatched character and can be refinished, but it wants a stable environment. Not our first choice over a moist slab or in a mudroom. Expect acclimation of 5 to 7 days for 3/4 inch solid oak and a higher installed cost. Laminate is budget friendly and looks great out of the box, but the core is still wood fiber. It does not like leaks. In a kitchen with kids and pets, we steer many folks to SPC. Tile is tough and handles water, but it needs a flat, rigid substrate, often backer board or a crack isolation membrane. It is cold underfoot without heat and takes longer, typically 3 to 4 days for 300 sq ft.
Vinyl plank sits in the middle. It is fast, durable, and forgiving of day‑to‑day spills. It is not bulletproof. Drag a piano across it and you will see the mark. Use felt pads and common sense, and it will hold up.
Local Climate Notes That Matter
Our seasons swing, and your floors feel it. Winter heat dries the air, summer humidity swells materials, even vinyl. We recommend keeping indoor humidity around 40 to 50 percent year round. If your home is near a lake or river, add a dehumidifier in summer for basements. We installed vinyl plank in a lakefront cottage last summer where the humidity swings were brutal. The homeowner had tried laminate before and watched it buckle within two years. Vinyl plank with a rigid core handled those conditions without a single complaint. That is the kind of match we aim for on every job.
Final Walkthrough and Care
After install, we pull blue tape on our layout marks, vacuum with a soft brush, and do a damp mop. We check every transition and door swing. Then we talk care. Most products want a neutral pH cleaner, microfiber mop, and felt pads on furniture legs. Avoid steam mops. They can force heat and moisture into joints. If a plank gets damaged, the beauty of click vinyl is that we can pop out a board mid‑field by releasing a couple of rows and replacing the bad one. Keep two spare boxes from the same dye lot if you can. Color shifts slightly between runs.
Here is a quick care list we leave with homeowners:
- Use felt pads on chairs and tables, replace them yearly. Put a walk‑off mat inside and outside the main entry. Sweep or vacuum grit weekly, no beater bars. Clean with manufacturer‑approved neutral cleaner, no wax.
Ready To Do It Right
At Wright Flooring, we install, repair, and stand behind our work. We are a professional flooring contractor that sees the good, the bad, and the avoidable. If you want a second set of eyes on your subfloor or need help picking a vinyl plank that fits your space, we are glad to look, measure, and give straight advice. Flooring installation is not magic, it is a method. Follow the checklist, and you will get a finish that looks sharp on day one and still clicks perfectly years later. If you would like our crew to handle the heavy lifting, or you just want a consult before you start, reach out and we will walk the space with you like a neighbor, not a salesman.